MAPerformance Evo X Oil Cooler Installation

MAPerformance Mitsubishi Evo X Oil Cooler Install

Contributed By Ntino Kouretas

[Downloadable PDF]

After receiving the MAPerformance Oil Cooler it was time to remove the old and install the new. This oil Cooler holds .5 more quarts than stock. It is longer, thicker, and slightly wider than the OEM piece and comes with all fittings and SS oil lines needed for install.

First thing you want to do is layout all the pieces to ensure everything is in order:

Once everything is laid out you can start to assemble your new oil cooler. First thing first is to open the bag of bolts, washers, and nuts included. You will need these for the brackets to oil cooler.

Note* When putting the bracket on the oil cooler it goes Bolt, bracket, washer, oil cooler, nut. The washers are there to act as a spacer from the ridges of the oil cooler. That way the brackets stay flat to the cooler itself.

This is how it will look assembled:

At this point you’re going to want to start taking the OEM oil cooler off. This is pretty easy to do as the bolts to the cooler itself are easily accessible. 3 Bolts in total for the OEM cooler.

The hard part is going to be removing the bolts from on top of the filter housing. Yon need a 24mm wrench and as much room as possible. It’s a tight squeeze, but slowly remove the 2 big bolts and washers from the OEM unit.

Once removed, you can start to measure the line length of the SS oil lines. You must cut these lines to proper lengths and attach the fittings.

Note* Once you have your lines measured out, cut the SS lines with a cut off wheel. It’s the easiest way to do it. Tape the section you’re going to cut with electrical tape in order to prevent fraying of the line. Once cut, blow the lines out with some compressed air to ensure that they are clean from debris.

Assembling the lines isn’t hard (in fact; the easiest part of the install). With the line cut, unscrew the oil fitting and insert the oil line into the ribbed fitting. Press it all the way in until the line reaches the threads. You’ll know when to stop since the line won’t go in any further.

Now you can start to thread the other end of the fitting in. It’s going to be very tight. Just keep on threading in until it has bottomed out.

Note* There are a total of 4 fittings for the SS oil lines. 3 of them are J fittings. 2 of the J fittings will be to the oil cooler. 1 J fitting will be for the passenger side oil filter housing. The straight fitting will be for the Drivers side oil filter housing.

Note* Drivers side fitting on oil filter housing is the feed line. The passenger side is the Return line.

You can now mount the 4 receiving fittings. The 2 smaller ones go on top of the oil filter housing. The 2 larger ones are meant for the oil cooler. It’s a good idea to oil the rubber gaskets a little bit so they don’t kink or bunch up when tightening down

Mounting the oil cooler:

Unbolt the OEM mounting bracket that is attached to the frame of the car. This will be replaced with the new MAP mounting bracket. (2 Bolts hold it on. You will reuse the OEM bolts hear.)

Note* When you mount the new bracket to the chassis, it will bend a little bit. Don’t worry. The OEM bracket is has a bend in it to form with the chassis, and the AMP bracket is not bent. So when you bolt it to the chassis it will bend a little into shape.

Transfer the OEM rubber grommets that were on the OEM oil cooler to your new MAP oil cooler. (3 in total)

Mount the MAP oil cooler to the new bracket in the OEM location. Mounting will look like this:

Note* How close the cooler gets to the top chassis:

You can bend the brackets back just a hair to avoid contact.

Now that everything is mounted and tightened up, you can mount the OEM air guide to the brackets; start the car up and check for leaks.

Note* Make sure you ziptie the lines out of the way

Some comparison shots of OEM to the new cooler:

Note* For you racers out there:

I used to have a SPAL fan mounted on the rear of my OEM oil cooler and a tried it again with this oil cooler. Unfortunately, since the cooler is allot longer than stock its really hard to mount and still have enough space to use the OEM wheel well. Even after I fabricated up some other brackets to push the cooler forward, it’s just too awkward. Luckily I have another solution. I took the SPAL fan off, mounted the oil cooler to its OEM location, and opened up the wheel well ridges so air can travel through. OEM configuration they are closed on the right side. Pics below of how I mounted it with fabricated mounts, and then with the SPAL fan off and the wheel well opened up a bit.

Between the Moroso Oil Pan and the MAP oil cooler; temps stayed well within check, so there isn’t a need for the SPAL fan any more.

Take me back to the top!