Category Archives: MAP Product Installations

Update on MAP’s 2008 Evolution X GSR Build Thread aka Project GGX

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Filed under Dyno Results, MAP Product Installations, MAP Projects, MAP Turbo Program

Well this has been a long time coming as my little project always seems to find itself on the back burner lol. Long story short, by combining some additional displacement with our EF4 turbocharger we’ve created what I believe to be the ultimate daily driver. 5000+ miles on the engine already, 60+ miles round trip daily, and no plans to put her to sleep for the upcoming MN winter

4th Gear – 603whp / 503wtq / Full Boost ~3300rpms

3rd Gear Comparison to Stock Turbo

A sincere thanks to the following sponsors that contributed to this project, it’s success can be directly attributed to the inclusion of their parts and will be highly recommended by my sales staff moving forward!

Advanced Clutch Technology (ACT)
AEM Performance Electronics
Boomba Racing
Extreme Turbo Systems
Fuel Injector Clinic
Grimmspeed
GSC Power Division
Manley Performance
Turbosmart
Wiseco

Updated modification list:

MAP Rev2 3.5″ Short Ram Intake
MAP EF4 Turbocharger (Dual Wastegate Configuration)
MAP Upper Intercooler Pipe *Coming Soon*
Extreme Turbo Systems 4″ Intercooler
Turbosmart Dual Port Blow Off Valve
Stock Throttle Body
MAP Rev3 Ported Intake Manifold
MAP Stage 5 Cylinder Head Port & Polish
- GSC S2 Camshafts
- GSC Beehive Valve Springs and Retainers
- Supertech Black Nitride Intake / Inconel Exhaust Valves
MAP Stage 2 2.4L Shortblock
- Manley I Beam Connecting Rods
- ACL Race Main & Rod Bearings
- Custom Wiseco HD Pistons
- Darton Sleeves
MAP Ported & Polished Exhaust Manifold
MAP O2 Eliminator Downpipe
Turbosmart CompGate40 Wastegate
MAP Test Pipe
MAP Varex Catback Exhaust
ACT Sprung 6 Puck Clutch Kit
ACT Streetlite Flywheel
Jack’s Transmisstions Diff Pin Upgrade Service
Custom Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump
Custom MAP Fuel Feed Line
Boomba Racing Fuel Rail
Fuel Injector Clinic 2150cc Injectors
MAP AFPR Kit with Fuelab Regulator
SSP Catch Can
AEM X-Wifi Wideband
Grimmspeed Manual Boost Controller

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Modern Automotive Performance
9800 Hemingway Ave S Cottage GroveMN55016 USA 
 • 651-348-8811

Dodge Neon SRT4 Transmission Rebuilds: Stages 1-3 Now Available! Bonus technical insight on common issues and how to fix them

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Filed under MAP Product Installations, New Product Announcements



MAPerformance is proud to offer quicker turn around times and unbeatable pricing on transmission rebuilds for your 03-05 Dodge Neon SRT4′s

We have many rebuild options available for your Dodge Neon SRT4 transmission that offer incredible reliability and increased performance. WWhether it is a daily driver which is stock, all the way to a Premium Stage 3 build that will hold up to the power of a highly modified drag or road race car. If you do not find a rebuild or part you are looking for please feel free to email us at sales@maperformance.com

Above and beyond making you aware of our staged rebuilds we also wanted to list out some of the most common issues you may run into with your srt4 trans and share some of our best selling upgrade components!



Common issue #1 – Broken Shift Selector

The fix – MAPerformance Billet Shift Selector

The MAP billet shift selector is a direct replacement for the brittle, cast component installed from the factory. Machined from 4140 chromoly that has been hardened to 50 HRC for the ultimate in strength and durability this shift selector will take anything you can throw at it and we include a one year warranty to back up that claim! If your stock piece hasn’t failed yet, it’s only a matter of time! Be proactive and preserve your peace of mind!

It may not be pretty, but it’s strong!

Billet shift selector srt4



Common issue #2 – Weak factory input shaft

The fix – Kevin Warren Billet Input Shaft / Straight Cut 1st and 2nd Gear

We have as an option on our rebuilds to add a Billet Heavy Duty input shaft which is known to withstand up to 1000hp in your SRT4 trans. As you can see in the pic, the factory unit has an area that is weak and can easily snap.

These Input Shafts are made of Forged 4320 high nickel chromoly steel and rated to 1000hp, they come with a straight cut first gear (3.0 rataio)(daily drivable with the torque reduction and length of first to launch) and straight cut second gear.



Common issue #3 – Shift Fork Breakage

The fix -  Billet Shift Fork

The OEM 3-4 shift fork in the SRT4 is known to break at the shift shaft end when under hard and abusive shifting. The pic below is of a broken unit. In our SRT4 trans rebuild we offer a billet shift fork option so you never have to worry about it again.




Common issue #3 - Hub Clip

The fix -  SS Upgrade

These have the problem of coming undone and allowing the 3-4 hub to wander.  All of our rebuild SRT4 units come with the new SS upgraded version so this will never be a problem again.



Common issue #3 – Synchro Ring Wear

The Fix – Proper Clutch Adjustment

It is common when a clutch is dragging at high RPM to burn up the 3rd gear synchro blocker ring. In the pic, this ring wore down so badly that it bottomed out on the gear. It then was unable to work properly and 3rd gear started to grind. You can see the scratches on the end next to the teeth from this. Proper clutch adjustment is critical for long synchro life. When you receive your trans back from us, there will be detailed instructions on how to prevent a clutch from dragging so this won’t happen again and your car will shift quickly and smoothly at high RPM as it was supposed to.

 

Huge thanks to our friends over at Jacks Transmissions for sharing all of this incredibly helpful info!

 

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MAP Dual Mapped EF2 Evo X: 421whp on 93oct & 472whp on E85

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This car arrived at our facility last Monday all the way from Indiana. It already had some basic modifications (and as it turns out a gaping hole in its lower intercooler pipe) but as Jordan worked his magic into Friday night it became an entirely different animal I’m very happy with the outcome, we even hit 494whp on the E85 tune at one point but turned it back down due to longevity concerns with the stock block. The EF2 turbocharger continues to exceed my expectations.

My sincere thanks go out to all the stock ECU gurus, especially Tephra as without his efforts dual maps might not be a reality!

Modifications:

Stock Shortblock
Stock Clutch
MAP EF2 Turbocharger
MAP 3.5″ Intake
MAP Rev3 Intake Manifold
MAP Short Runner Exhaust Manifold
AMS O2 Eliminator Downpipe
GSC Valve Springs
GSC S2 Cams
BC Head Gasket
ARP Head Studs
Grimmspeed 3-port EBC
FIC 1100cc Injectors
Walbro 255hp Fuel Pump
Aftermarket 3″ CBE
Aftermarket Intercooler & Piping

Pump Gas: 421whp / 326wtq

E85 Results: 472whp / 428wtq

Here’s a quote from the customer’s father who picked up the car for the journey back to Indiana:

Quote:
…does the e85 tune come with seat protection? Lol holy heck! Lol

 

And here are the customer’s initial impressions:

Quote:
The car has made it home safely. I took it for a few drives and all I have to say is wow. The car’s powerband is crazy wide. You did an awesome job. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into the car. I will definitely be bringing the car back to you for a short block build sometime in the future.

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MAPerformance Evo X Firewall Heat Shield Installation With Pictures!

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MAP Evo X Firewall Heat Shield (EVOX-FHS) Installation

WARNING- DO NOT INSTALL WITH A WARM MOTOR AS THE EXHAUST WILL BE HOT AND BURN YOU!


STEP 1-3, REMOVE STRUT BRACE(DO NOT RAISE VEHICLE DURING THE INSTALLATION AS THE STRUTS WILL FALL OUT OF PLACE IN THE STRUT TOWERS)


WE WILL START THIS INSTALLATION BY REMOVING THE STRUT BRACE. THREE 14MM HEX NUTS WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED FROM EACH STRUT TOWER,THE NUTS FURTHEST BACK WILL BE DIFFICULT TO REMOVE WITH OUT A SWIVEL EXTENSION BUT CAN BE DONE WITH A 14MM OPEN END WRENCH. IN THE CENTER OF THE BRACE THERE ARE TWO BOLTS THAT WILL ALSO BE REMOVED AND THE STRUT BRACE WILL COME RIGHT OUT.


STEP 4, REMOVE PLASTIC ENGINE COVER

THIS COMES OFF FAIRLY EASY, JUST LIFT UP ON THE FRONT AND REAR EDGES AND SET IT ASIDE FOR LATER.


STEP 5-8, REMOVE FACTORY HEAT SHIELD

THIS FACTORY HEAT SHIELD IS SECURED BY THREE 10MM HEAD BOLTS, ONE IN THE MIDDLE, AND TWO ALONG THE BOTTOM EDGE. REMOVE THESE BOLTS AND SLIDE THE SHIELD OUT PAST THE ALIGNMENT STUD ON THE BOTTOM EDGE AND LIFT OUT OF THE ENGINE BAY. WE WILL NOT BE REUSING THE SHIELD.


STEP 9-10, REMOVE PLASTIC HOLDING NUTS

ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE FIRE WALL THERE ARE TWO PLASTIC NUTS SECURING THE MOLDED HEAT MAT THAT WILL NEED TO BE REMOVED. TO INSTALL THE MAP FIREWALL HEAT SHIELD.IF YOU ARE CONFUSED, CHECK THE ALIGNMENT OF THE MAP SHIELD FOR WHICH ONES TO REMOVE.


STEP 10-14, INSTALLING THE MAP FIREWALL HEAT SHIELD

SLIP THE SHIELD IN FACE DOWN, BOTTOM FIRST. IT SHOULD SLIP RIGHT IN BUT AVOID FORCING AS YOU COULD BREAK A SENSOR IF NOT DONE CORRECTLY. TO FIT THE SHIELD ONCE SET IN BEHIND THE MOTOR, LIGHTLY PUSH IT BACK AND UP IN TO THE STUD FROM WHICH THE TWO PLASTIC NUTS WERE REMOVED. NOW AS YOU ARE HOLDING THE SHIELD, ALIGN THE VERY BOTTOM ALIGNMENT STUD ON THE FIREWALL WITH THE MIDDLE HOLE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE MAP SHIELD. WITH ONE OF THE TWO SUPPLIED M8X 1.25 NUTS, START AND ENGAGE THE THREADS BUT NOT ALL THE WAY YET. MOVING ON TO THE SECOND ALIGNMENT STUD IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FIREWALL, THIS IS SHOWN ON STEP 12. JUST PUSH AGAINST THE SHIELD AND ENGAGE THE SECOND SUPPLIED NUT.


STEP 13 MAY BE HARD TO SEE, BUT THIS IS JUST REINSTALLING ONE OF THE 10MM HEAD BOLTS REMOVED FROM THE FACTORY SHIELD. THIS BOLT ALONG WITH THE TWO SUPPLIED NUTS WILL BE SUFFICIENT TO SECURE THE MAP FIREWALL HEAT SHIELD. GO AHEAD AND TIGHTEN ALL THREE FASTENERS.


STEP 15, INSTALL FACTORY ENGINE COVER


STEP 16, INSTALL STRUT BRACE

WHAT A BEAUTE!! ALL DONE!

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DeatschWerks EVO X direct fit fuel pump installation and review by Modern Automotive Performance

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Filed under MAP Product Installations, New Product Announcements
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Recently we had a customer bring in his shiny new EVO X for some upgrades, while discussing fuel system options the new DW65C 265lph compact pump came to mind.  We have had great results from the Deatschwerks 300lph pumps which hit the streets last summer so needless to say we were excited to see what this new compact pump had to offer. Up until now a high flow, high pressure fuel pump that was a direct fit for the Evo X, Pontiac GTO, 2001-11 Honda Civic, R35 GT-r, 2008-12 Subaru WRX/STi and 2005-09 LGT was simply not available.  Since we were already going to perform the install I figured why not document it and give a review of our first hands on experience with this new pump.

Click here to order yours today for only $149 Shipped!

The test subject: A 2011 Mitsubishi Evolution X GSR

At first glance the DW65C appears to be a high quality product and it also comes with all of the necessary o-rings to complete the install.

First things first we need to remove the stock sending unit which contains the fuel pump. This will be located under the rear seat. There is an access cover on the drivers side which will need to be removed. Removing the cover reveals the sending unit, this is where your pump is mounted so lets get it out of the tank.

 We need to start by disconnecting the fuel feed and return lines as well as the wiring that run to the sending unit.

 Let start with the return line, it has a small spring clamp. Slide this back and remove the hose as pictured below.

Remove the fuel return line as pictured...

Next un-clip the feed line and wiring harness. Remove the six nuts that fasten the sending unit to the tank.

Its going to take some maneuvering to get the unit out of the tank so be patient. As you lift the unit from the tank you will see another rubber hose on the inside of the tank. This is attached with a spring clip much like the return line. You will need to remove this in order to get the sending unit out of the tank.

Sending unit has been removed

You should have something like this when the sending unit is removed.

Now lets concentrate on what was just removed…

There is a c-clip that is located on the bottom of the rod with the spring on it. Flip the unit over to remove this.

Disengage the clips with a small screw driver to split the assembly.

This will allow the sending unit to be separated. You will need to disconnect the wiring for the pump and sending unit.

Remove the pump assembly from the unit and disengage the clips that hold the fuel filter on.

Grab hold firmly to the bottom of the stock pump and remove it from the assembly.

Where the feed from the pump inserts into the assembly be sure to remove the stock o-ring. It is common for this to stay in the housing upon removal. We will be replacing this with new o-rings that came with the pump.

Here is a shot of the stock pump on the right and the new DW pump on the left. You can see they are identical in overall dimensions and appear very similar overall.

Now lets install our new DW65c pump. First install the two included o-ring over the pump feed. Also lubricate with included silicone lubricant. This will insure the o-rings are seated properly.

Now install the filter (removed earlier) onto our new pump.

Next install the assembled pump and filter back into the pump housing. Be sure to plug in the pumps power harness at this time as well.

Next reassemble your sending unit and pump housing. Please note you will need to use some force to clip the pump housing back into place.

Nest install your c-clip.

Now we can connect our sending unit and pump wiring.

To complete the install we must reinstall our rubber seal.

Now we can install our fully assembled sending unit back into our fuel tank. Be sure to install sending unit retainer before reconnecting lines and wiring.

Tighten down the nuts and reconnect your fuel feed line / return line and wiring.

Finally install your fuel sending unit cover, press firmly and hold for a few moments to be sure it stays in place.

There, your all done! You will want to prime the pump and watch to make sure nothing is leaking before actually starting the vehicle. Do this by cycling to key to the on position a few times. If there are no leaks try and fire it up, assuming you have followed all of the above instructions everything should work and now your Evo X is ready for even more boost!

Click here to order yours today for only $149 Shipped!

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New bolt on 304 SS mid pipe. Delivering sound and HP to your GT-R!!!

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Filed under MAP Product Installations
gtr

MIL.SPEC delivers the highest-flowing cat bolt-on for your GT-R. Guaranteed. Our full 3″ y-pipe with two 100 cell high flow cats merge into a single 3.5″ pipe. The unit is also much lighter than the OEM piece. Includes our proprietary 100 cell US-made cats. Bolts up to any 3.5″ exhaust like the one from AMS.

* MIL.SPEC proprietary 100 cell metallic cat
* High-quality 304SS tubing
* 3/8″ stainless steel flanges
* Includes 3 gaskets with fire rings
* Comes with necessary bolts and nuts

For more info on this product and more click here!

Please contact us for unbeatable pricing! Keep in mind we will match or beat any competitors pricing on so called “package deals”!

1-888-MAPerformance

MAP Facebook MAP Twitter MAP YouTube

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MAPerformance Bolt On Turbo’s for the Evo 8/9 – Machined, assembled, and balanced in the USA. More specifically, in OUR machine shop ;)

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Prepare for the teaser video of the year!!!

 

 

>

Please contact us for unbeatable pricing! Keep in mind we will match or beat any competitors pricing on so called “package deals”!

1-888-MAPerformance

MAP Facebook MAP Twitter MAP YouTube

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Product Installation Video: Mishimoto Evo X Radiator

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Big thanks to Mishmoto for taking the time to create this very detailed video!

Get your ordered today for only $255 Shipped

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New Product Release – MAPerformance Evo X Bolt In Air/Oil Separator

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The MAP Evo X Air & Oil Separator Kits are plumbed into a vehicle’s PCV system to capture the excess crankcase vapors and the residual oil mist from reentering the intake track. Evo’s from the factory vent these excess crankcase vapors and residual oil right back into the intake manifold which could cause detonation and oil deposits to form in the intake track including the valves. The polished Billet Aluminum body compliments any engine compartment and can be chromed or powder coated for a custom look.

Key features

  • Complete solution – our kit includes everything needed to plumb this into your Evo X
  • Simple bolt in installation
  • Billet mounting clamp to secure AOS tank to fire wall
  • Bottom drain with elbow that makes draining the collected oil virtually mess-free

Order yours today for only $199.99 Shipped

(Installed on Scheides Evo X)

(Showing were the hoses run behind the heat shield on the fire wall)

(Showing connection to valve cover)

(Showing connection to the intake)

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Boost Spikes – What are they, how do they come about and how to avoid them

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First off I need to say thanks to Turbosmart and their engineers for sharing this info, hopefully it leads to better understanding of turbocharger systems!

Boost spiking is defined as a momentary over shoot in boost pressure over the desired boost level. A boost spike is the result of the boost controller holding the signal to the wastegate actuator / external wastegate for too long. Clamping the signal to the wastegate can increase the response of turbo system and reduce lag by effectively keeping the wastegate shut and not allowing it to bypass any exhaust thus not wasting any exhaust energy.

A spike in pressure can be a desired effect as it gives the engine a large increase in midrange torque without placing a lot of strain on the engine as the higher boost pressure is only reached momentarily at mid range RPM rather than having that boost level all the way through the rev range. Some cars from factory have boost pressure spikes to make the engine feel more responsive and powerful in the midrange.

A wastegate needs to be given time to “catch” the boost curve. To eliminate a boost spike, the wastegate must begin to open before target boost by a certain amount of time depending on the turbo system. If the wastegate begins to open at target boost, a boost spike will occur as the wastegate will need some time to open to the right valve height to divert enough exhaust gas to maintain the desired boost level.

The Turbosmart e-Boost boost controller range has a gate pressure function that allows the user to choose what pressure the controller will allow boost pressure to reach the actuator. Setting the gate pressure at the optimum level will result in the best boost response from the turbo system. Set the gate pressure too high and a boost spike will occur; set it too low and the boost response will be lower. The gate pressure is tuned by first setting the gate pressure at 3 PSI lower than what the target boost pressure is; IE if the target boost pressure is 18 PSI, set the gate pressure to 15 PSI. If a undesirable spike occurs, reduce the gate pressure by 1 PSI and check whether a spike occurs again. Repeat steps until the spike is gone.

The Turbosmart manual boost controller range has an in built gate system which is set at 3 PSI. This means that below 3 PSI, the controller will clamp the signal to the wastegate, keeping it closed. If an undesirable boost spike occurs, removing the gate system by removing the ball and spring can eliminate the spike. Note: This modification is only required in a minimal number of applications.

Gate System Removal – Manual (Gated Boost Controllers)
The gate system can be removed by the following steps.
(Perform this modification on a clean bench so that the ball and spring are not lost.)

• Allow the engine to cool down before removing the Boost Tee from your vehicle

• Identify the input nipple with the restrictor at the end. Loosen the input nipple and remove the ball and spring.

• Check that the internal air passages are clear and free from debris

• Re-install the boost controller by following the instructions for your setup

• You will need to re-adjust your boost settings after the removal of the gate.


Q: Will fitting a manual boost controller stop the boost from spiking or over-boosting?
A: With a correctly installed boost controller you should not be experiencing any spikes in boost pressures. However, if you have a pre-existing problem with an excessive amount of boost pressure it’s best to get the problem diagnosed and fixed before installing a boost controller.


TROUBLE SHOOTING
The following points should be checked if you find that your engine is developing excessive boost, the boost pressure is fluctuating or the desired boost level cannot be achieved. Please note, the following checks will cure 99% of problems experienced when fitting a Turbosmart boost controller.

• Check that the boost controller is installed so that the arrow points toward the wastegate actuator

• Check the joining hoses for splits, cracks or loose connection and are the correct size for the application

• Check to see if the boost controller is blocked or contaminated with dirt or debris

• Ensure that there is nothing but the boost controller in the hose between the pressure source and the wastegate actuator, ie tee
pieces for boost gauge or to factory boost solenoid.

• Pressure test the wastegate actuator for leakage,

See the full range of Turbosmart) Boost Controllers here

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